I dont even know where to start, so I suppose I will begin BEFORE the beginning.
Last week, I did the whole going to class bit, and on Tuesday we had our last Shakespeare play at the Globe; Midsummers Nights Dream which was the best of all of them, but we had to stand in the pit like “peasants” this time so it sort of took away from the experience. Like many other weeks I wound up doing something Touristy on Wednesday; this week my friend Anne and I went to see Buckingham Palace’s open house which is scheduled to end tomorrow so we were lucky to get in. We saw the series of state rooms that are used for hosting formal gatherings, including the entry hall, grand staircase, King Edward’s art gallery, and most impressively, Queen Victoria’s Ballroom, which is where the Monarch holds formal state dinners. Queen Elizabeth has held 97 functions in the Ballroom. This is impressive, simply because of the amount of work and time that goes into such an evening…heirloom china, 6 crystal glasses per guest (sometimes over a 100 guests), 6 florists working on centerpieces, chalklines to keep candle votives straight along the table which forms a U-shape, with the Queen at the center. It takes the staff about 2 weeks to prepare all of the food and setting for each evening, and EVERYTHING is washed by HAND at the end. Two American Presidents, Reagan and G W Bush have attended functions at Buckingham, and the only visitor to have attended two has been Jaques Chirac and his wife of France. CRAZYYYYYY. It was also intereting to think about some other gusts…like the Shah of Iran who attended in the 1950s, long before the Iranian revolution, or Nelson Mandella who was originally deported from South Africa by British authorities, before the nation became independent and he was elected President! Also interesting was the history during the war, where bombs were dropped EXTREMELY close the Palace, but the Monarchs never left, fearing that their exit from the building would signal to the British that they had lost the war. I pretended to be deaf so I could read the audio guide tour rather than hold a stupid headset up to my ear the entire time, that about 5007 people have touched.
The rest of the week was boring, but I wound up getting all of my work done so that I could take my trip to Barcelona without worrying about it all. And so, lets drive into what actually happened on my Holiday in Spain!
I had booked the flight this past summer for super cheap, expecting people here to jump at the chance to come along, but wound up being wrong. They closest I got to finding someone was convincing two people from my class to go on Friday and stay till Saturday, so I could spend the day with them. I didnt sleep friday night, and went to St. Pancras train station at 330AM to get on the shuttle train to the airport. The airport was surprisingly crowded for 5AM when I got there, and none of the flights were budging until the very thick fog lifted. My plane was 45 min late, but everything went smooth since I had only my backpack. The shuttle train into Barcelona from the airport was just as easy as I remember it, and I walked the short distance to my Hostel.
I booked this Hostel on a hotel website, so it was a little bit more expensive, but wound up being DEFINITELY worth it. It was right at the top of Las Rambles (the main tourist and certainly the center street of the old Roman city) and only a 5 MINUTE walk to Dunkin Donuts (which, over the course of 3 days, I spent about 27 USD at). The Hostel was super clean, and actually was run by two sisters who were from Chicago. They were very friendly, and the entire group of people staying the night I was there were great (more about the later). I checked in, and quickly went down Las Rambles to meet up with the two friends who had been their for a day already.
We found each other easily, and all sat down to enjoy a round of Tapas right on Las Rambles, with street performers, honking European cars, and about 2.7 million tourists. It was delicious, I even enjoyed the calamari (hard to avoid fish in Barcelona). After lunch, we went down to the bustling pier, and looked out over tons of Sail boats parked in the harbor. It was SUNNY and 75 degrees, which was appreciated since rain was forecasted. The two friends had to leave around dinner time, which left me free to do as I pleased, which usually means do as the authors of my Lonely Planet Guidebooks please. I did a two hour long trek across the citys modern part to see various forms of “Modernista” architecture. Most of it was not much to write home about, but some were very bizarre and interesting. One building shaped like a soft serve ice cream (people live in these), one shaped like the sea with sea weed and coral formations, one shaped like a dragons back. Modernist designers used custom poured concrete and lots of tile to create what some would call ugly, some would call HUGE RVENUE GENERATORING buildings around the new part of Barcelona which was built during the 1800s. The most famous Modernista designer is Guadi, and his most famous work is one that he never saw completed: The Sagrada Familia Church. He died (he drunkely walked in front of a tram, and then laid in the road for two days before being taken to a hospital where he declared he wished to die with the poor people of Barcelona) before seeing it carried out. Then civil war broke out in 1936, and all of his models and drawings were destroyed. However, Gaudi is burried in the church, so in the 1982s after Ferdinando Franco died and Spain began to modernize and liberalize, people checked out his tomb and found scrolls of blueprints to the church. Today, work is being done to build what Gaudi started, and there is significant progress being made. However, many of the local doubt that the thing will ever be completed!
At night, I walked down to “La Barceloneta” which is a rejuvinated part of Barecelona right on the water. There are lots of restaurants and hotels there now, and at night there was a fair going on with rides and everything. I ordered a Paella to go, but it would up being sea food Paella (fried rice with spices) so I had some picking around to do. Also, I have no idea what the word for “spoon” is in either Spainish or Canylonian (Barcellonas sepratist dialect of spainish) so I had to eat the whole stupid thing with a Gelato spoon which is basically a plastic tongue depressor. Wah wahhh. Afterwards, another stop at DD to get a coffee and I went to sit in the Place Revial which is where Barcellona is most alive during the night, right off Las Rambles. People watching, and DD. I went back to my Hostel once I was too cold, but found everyone sitting in the lobby talkng rather than in bed! I decided 2AM was no time to go to sleep, and joined in the conversation. Lots of cool people, and everyone was heading out to a party at a friend’s apartment for someones Bon Voyage party. Why not, and it was cool! Afterwards, we took the metro to another club to get out of the tourist-infested areas and actually be at a Spainish night club!! I went home early with another Hostel guest, so I could wake up early the next day.
Sunday morning, I walked down to the center of the old city, to meet up with a Tourist Bike Tour I had seen advertised online before leaving for Barcellona. It was called Fat Tire Bike Tours, and like most other things on this trip, I HIGHLY recommend going with them on Bike tours in cities around Europe (also in Paris, London, and Berlin). There were about 12 of us in the group, with out tour guide Mark! Mark was from Texas, and decided one day that his life with his girlfriend was too boring, so they moved to Barecellona. Cool?? I guess, he was a very good guide! I was the only American on the tour, there were older ladies from Denmark there (one of whom got lost, what????), also there was a woman from Latvia, a man from Germany, another from London, and two girls who were my age, from Australia! Like many other times while alone in Europe, I felt very isolated, so I decided that I would narrow the population to just english-speakers! Biking is not conducive to conversing however, so it wasnt until later on, when we would stop, that I could actually talk to people. We did lots of the old city, and even before the tour started I didnt even need a coat it was so warm and sunny out. We nearly took out a few Barcellonians walking back from sunday mass, which means many “LO SIENTOS” could be heard from out group along the way…although I dont think our appologies were taken too seriously. We exited the old city, saw many of the modern buildings from Gaudi and his contemporaries, stopped at the big church and had many history lessons along the way. We stopped at the last remaining bull-fighting areana in Barcellona. Apparently, Bull-fighting has been outlawed in Barcellona, but you would never tell by the event schedule the Bull-fighting arena keeps. Not everyone bull fighting-obsessed in Spain however, the entire white and blue tile facade of the areana was covered in dried red-paint balls from angry animal rights people!
We continued down towards the sea, taking up a large portion of the road with our bikes, until we reached the modern Port-Olimpic. Something that Barcellona never lets you forget is that the 1992 summer Olympics were held there…get over it. Actually, in all fairness, the Olympics bid gave an otherwise decrepid and skeezy Spainish town, which barely made it out of Franco-era rule without being burned to the ground, an excuse to completely revitalize! Port Olimpic is a great example of this redevelopment, with two skyscrapers built directly between two modern marinas, and two extremely attractive, but man made beaches. Between the two buildings is a fountain which works at night with lights and music to put on a specticle. From here, we saw towards the north along the coast, where the post-modern Bareclona is currently being built, with many skyscrapers, and “solar parks” which is part of the whole green movement to power Barcellona. We biked toward the old city again after that, along the marinas and beaches on the “boardwalk”. At the end of the last beach, we stopped and parked for lunch, where they were expecting 12 bikers with lounge chairs right out on the sand under umberellas! We were comped for an entree and a liter of Sangria which is an American-turned-Spainish punch made with redwine and fruit. Mostly red wine. It was DELICIOUS, I had a Chicken Caesar Salad which is remarkable simply because they dont do that in London so much. It was here, during lunch, that we finally all got to talked. The woman from Lativa was really interesting, she was impressed I knew where Lativa is, and she was even more excited to talk to an American to practice her english…many too excited I felt like she never stopped talking. The Australians were the most interesting, they took a semester off to travel together for 3 months through Europe and eventually America and Canada. WOW did they have some stories! We quickly finished the tour after lunch, and gave Mark a round of applause. The two globe trotters and I agreed that we should meet up for diner that night, and at their suggestion I met them at 730 to join them for quite a night out on the town.
Before I get there however, I did wind up doing something during the afternoon. Since it was Sunday, most things were closed, so I decided to take my Lonely Planet and have it take me to the top of “Montjuic” which is just south on the coast of the center of the city. It is a very high hill, where the Kingdom of Spain built a castle to protect the city from invaders. During Franco era however, it became a center of fascism, and was extremely gross by the end of his rule. This became the epicenter of the 1992 Olympics, the city poured millions into building the stadiums, and even a regulation swimming arena all on top of this monster hill. Also, the largest art museum, and a former royal palace is located up there. I was surprised to discover that the entire place was rigged with escalators, so I easily made it to the top, and walked around to see the various things, eventually winding up at a park on the very edge of the cliff closest to the city and sea. Manyyy photos were to be had, even though I was alone.
I walked down, and used the guide books suggested walking tours of the old city to explore the remaining sights I had yet to see, including Roman ruins, civil war sites, churches, etc etc. I accidentally stumbled on a small street that made me fairly confident that an international travesty was about to occur, when I found a tiny little store. I was almost about to start running, when I realized that three ancient women were making something that smelled like fried heaven. I walked in, and recognized “chuerros”, or “xuerros” as they say in Canalonyan, which I would say are kind of like Spainish cookies, a little on the fried dough side. They are dough, pressed in a long star-shaped tube, and looped into a circle, and they fried, and sprinkled with sugar. I said chuerros, and she put about 2 pounds of them into cone of paper…this concerned me both for my health and my lack of euros. She said uno euro after sprinkling the sugar, and I said “oh wow, really???” handed her the coin before she realized what a horrible mistake she made. I sat in the largest square of the old city, eating my chuerros, and drinking my Dunkin Donuts, people watching until it was time for dinner. One other interesting story, the main church in old Barcellona, has been under “renovations” for about a decade now. It is completely covered in scaffolding and mesh wth advertisements on it, but our tour guide told us that the church makes so much money off of the advertising that it cant afford to take the mesh down! So it is a big debate about when the stupid thing will be back to normal, meanwhile millions of tourists stupidly take photos of the church…with the ads on it. Hahaha.
Around 715, I wandered to the meeting point and waited. To my surprise, they actually came, and we sat talking for a long time before discussing the game plan for the evening. They had a flyer, advertising dinner and entertainment, all for 23 euros, so I green lighted that and we walked to the pub where it started. The deal was we were to go to two different pubs to try many types of tapas and sangria, and around 1030PM were to go to a theater venue to watch a spainish music/dance show called Flaminco. The whole experience was really nice, because the waitors explained to us each type of Tapa they brought to us, the history of tapas, and it was all-you-can-eat and drink! Around 1015 our waitor and his spainish friend walked us back up Las Rambles to get inside the theater, where we sat talking. We had very interesting conversations, comparing our different home lives, and our travels. They live on the western side of Australia, worry about hitting Kangaroos at night in the dark, and have Christmas on the beach….crazy! We sat waiting for the show to start, not knowing what to expect. I have video and photos, but all I could describe it as in writing is sort of like Spainish-jazz. They sang, played instruments, clapped, while a woman with tap shoes out provided a beat. They would respond to each other, harmonize, speed up, slow down, crescendo, it was pretty wild. It lasted for about 45 minutes, and they it turned into a night club with performers, so we decided to take off. Dunkin donuts was closed by then, but we talked for a while outside, and then I decided to go back to my Hostel so I could get up early the next day.
Last paragraph, promise. I woke up at 6AM to check out of the hostel and take the metro “uptown” to the last remaining tourist location on the list: Parc Gruell. In the 1800s, this was just a small hill on the outskirts of the modern town, where most of the building was happening. A rich business man bought it, and gave it to Gaudi to build luxery homes on. I am not sure what happened in between that request and whats there today, but I imagine it involved a lot of, something. Anyways, basically after the developer rejected what Gaudi had done, the city bought the property and turned it into a Park. Most of it is green trees and grass now, but Gaudi’s village, which looks pretty much like a scene from Hanzel and Grettle or Willy Wonka still remains. I sat at the top of the hill, after climbing about a million steps, to watch the sun come up over the Mediterranean! Many photos, again.
Overall, things could NOT have gone better, and I am really happy how everything worked out. Being back in London is weird again, but going to the grocery store and for a run today helped normalize things a little. My class tomorrow morning is cancelled, which is awesome because I absoultely need to sleep in. Thursday, Amanda arrives in London for the weekend, so I will be remaining here to host her and show her the sights.
Sorry this was so long, but hope you enjoy parts of it! Cant wait to show you all the photos.