Alright, so, back online! I have quite a few things to talk about, after re-reading my last post. The last time we talked, was the second night in Athens, and everything that day had worked out perfectly. Since then, we have traveled in and out of Patras, Greece, attempted to travel to Olympia, Greece, spent the night on our Ferry Boat to Bari, Italy, and finally have arrived in the Port of Bari. I am writing this on our first night in the first hotel, the Hotel Boston.
To start, Monday, I woke up early to see a bit more of Athens while my friends slept in. I wanted to walk a ways north to climb a small hill. Monday was “Clean Monday” in Greece, which marks the end of their Carnavale-Mardi Gras time, and begins the three week period until the Orthodox Easter. They are not permitted to eat any meats, cheeses, or olive oil during this time. And Monday was a national holiday with revised bus schedules, almost nothing open at all, and many Greeks take to hill tops or open areas to fly kites. It is this thing they do, I have no idea why. Greece has a kite flying day. Whatever. Anyways, I walked all the way up at 9 in the morning to the top of a hill to see some kites…no kites. I walked back and on the way saw a few new buildings, a giant city park, and more of the same from Sunday. I am still very impressed with Athens. A few things I wanted to mention about Greece that I forgot about the last time, including the number of stray dogs wandering the city. There are many, and while they arent frightening, they certainly do allow Greece to maintain its Second World status. Also, I am not sure if I mentioned it or not in the last post, the contrast between working and unemployed; poor and rich; housed and unhoused; is VERY great. Literally there will be a bombed out cement bunker next to a gorgeous brand new Hotel building…I feel as if there in a bit of a transitional phase. In any case, it was unusual.
We had breakfast at the hotel again, then packed it up and took a city bus to their central bus station. We found our coach bus that would take us to Patras, boarded, and we were off. The bus ride was AMAZING- the entire time we traveled along the coast of one Greek Island or another, with mountains usually to the left, and picturesque sea towns with no internet probably to our right just before the never-ending coast. The ride took about 3 hours with a few stops. I took lots of pictures and even a film, it was that dramatic to watch the scenery go by. Another thing we saw a lot of was Greek villages that, unlike Athens, were not modern by any means. Whole families living in cement bunkers with tin roofs (RUSTED! haha), laundry drying out on the line, piles of garbage, no cars, no electricity or if so, very little. It was so incredible, watching these small communities and un-modernized people rush past as I flipped through songs on an iPod nano. Each and every community had multiple churches however.
We knew we were entering the city of Patras (the third largest city in Greece) when we saw the long suspention bridge connecting the Pelopennasean Island with the mainland. It has four tourettes (the Golden Gate has 2) and is the longest cable suspended bridge in all the world. It was a real sight, although we did not get to cross it. We entered town, and finally stopped at possibly the worst-designed bus station in the world, besides Port Authority in NYC. We also knew at this point that our Greece experience was rapidly erroding.
Out hotel, the Hotel Adonis, was proclaimed to be a 3 star hotel by some websites, 2 stars by others. We checked in, and it was automatically not as nice at the BW in Athens. However, it had all the essentials. The sheets were clean, the bathroom was too, but a little disfunctional. There was even a balcony overlooking the mess that was the bus station. I should mention, the hotel was directly in the center of everything, across the street was the train station, the Port of Patras with many of the ferries we would be taking in a few days, and the bus station. We went to lunch near-by at a cafe that as it turns out serves a lot or American Food. I had a Chicken Ceasar Salad for the first time since being in Europe!! It was wonderful! We went back to the hotel, and Mark and I went out to explore the town which took about 2 hours tops. We grabbed Greek Pastries at this local store, walked down some of the main roads, looked for dinner restaurants, and wound our way past their impressive town hall, a few churches, and eventually the end of the line which was a Lighthouse! The lighthouse is still functional, and has a restaurant in the bottom. There was a large public park right on the water, with awesome views of the Greek landscape. Our Hotel had some of the same views, out into the Ionian Sea. We then walked up the mountain that Patras is built in front of to get to an ancient Roman Theater (closed) and an impressive castle/fort that was originally built by Greeks around 300 and was used all the way till the end of WWII! We watched the sunset over the city and the Sea from this vantage point, then went back to the hotel. Dinner was difficult this night, in spite of being in Greece, it being Clean Monday, nothing was open. We ate at TGIFridays downtown, literally. I did not order any food, but enjoyed a drink and some cigarette smoke. In Greece, it is “va bene” to smoke inside. The last thing I want to mention is that Patras was a city that was suffering a large post-carnavale hang over. The city of Patras hosts the largest Carnavale parade and festival in all of Greece, and one of the largest in Europe. The sidewalks were covered in an unimaginable amount of garbage. The lights were still hung up on the street lights, confetti everywhere, streamers, broken bottles, etc. Even the floats were still parked down by the ferry port, and all through the city there were 20ft tall paper mache statues of characters and things, painted and everything. Patras was filthy, but I think it was our timing.
Speaking of timing, Tuesday we decided that it would be a good idea to visit Olympia. Delphi was described as being too complicated of a trip to do in one day, so with Olympia as a good option, we went to that bus station again, and bought tickets to take a 2.5 hour bus ride out and see the sight of the original Olympia Games. We should have stayed in Patras. Around one hour into the ride, it started to pour rain, and lightning/thunder. By the time we got to Pyrgos, where we would have to transfer buses to god 20 more minutes to Olympia, the rain had gone away, but Mark and Courtney wanted just to go back. I should have gone with them. I decided I couldnt get right back on a 3 hour long bus ride, so I stayed and waited for the 4PM bus to Olympia, and to go see the archeological sight by myself. I waited, boarded, and went literally to the biggest summer-only, tourist town I have ever been to. Olympia was DEAD and the sights were all closed. SO, I sat until 750PM ( for the 730PM bus) to arrive in a convenience store with an old Greek man watching black and white Greek movies. OH MY GOD. The bus finally came, so I boarded, and went back to Pyrgos, where the 8PM bus had already left. That left just 4 hours until the 1230AM bus could take me back to Patras in 2 hours. I was so frustrated!! AND I had no cell phone, so I could not tell my friends back in Patras where I was, that I was ok, or anything. It all worked out, I had an awesome dinner of water, pumpkin seeds, and tea crackers, and made it back to our hotel room by 230AM. I was without a coat. It was at this point that I was over my Greece experience.
Obviously I slept in on Wednesday, and we checked out without having breakfast. We had a HUGE lunch in town, chicken burgers!!! Very Greek!!! We also went back to the same pastry place Mark and I went to and bought the most incredible bachliva and other things I have no idea what are called, but were great. With pastry in hand, we went and sat by the lighthouse and took creative pictures until it was time to make out way back to the center, where our overnight ferry would be leaving from.
Now this was a turning point: We were finally done with Greece. Greece outside of the tourist center of Athens is not user-friendly, the english knowledge fades as you leave that small bastion. Also, the overall pleasantness for American tourists trails off as well. The cleanliness declines, the efficiency is horrible. I feel like Greece, in spite of its positive attributes including a beautiful geographical position, a rich history, and its position within the European Union, still has a long way to go. Thats one other thing, traveling between states in the EU is super easy, as in, once youre in, youre in. We went from Italy to Greece and no passport lines! So again, this was a turning point, we were embarking on a Superfast Overnight Ferry that was HUGE. We were going back to a country that not only speaks a language we are studying, they also use the same alphabet as we do. And we were also halfway done with the hole trip.
We boarded the ferry, and immediately discovered that that title didnt suit it. This was a mini-cruise ship. We took two escalators up to the 7th deck where were escorted by a crew member in uniform to our inside cabin. It was a VERY small cabin, with four beds bunked. There was a full bathroom and desk however, so we were living like ballas. The boat was RIDICULOUS. It had many lounges, a swimming pool that was closed because of the season, many bars, stores, an internet lounge, a small casino, two restaurants (one self service and one luxury), a discoteche which played Greek music all night long!, a game room, etc, etc. It was like nothing Ive ever done before. We sat on the deck, I read my book, and as the sunset we pulled away from Patras and into the Ionion Sea. The views were AMAZING and I have lots of pictures. The one bad thing was the boat was heading right for the sun as it touched the water, so the sunset was more of a picture-it-yourself kind of a deal, as it was in front of the boat the entire time where we could not access.
We had dinner at the nicer restaurant, which was serving Lean Cusine as it turns out….ha, however it was nice. On the boat, there werent too many people, however we were certainly three of many five english speakers. There was a huge Italian group of High School kids, probably on a school trip, and lots of truck drivers who parked their trucks in the garages below deck 5 and came up to sleep for the night. I wound up reading a little more, than Courtney and I spent a few hours at the Discobar on the very back of the boat. However, we pulled into port in northern Greece for a few hours at this point to collect more cargo and passangers, so the entire back of the boat was rattling wicked intensely as it was loading and grinding against the dock. With Greek music, and the sounds of intense airplane turbuence, and a hundred screaming Italian 9th graders, it was a nice atmosphere. After midnight, they bumped the beats up a notch and the clapping and dancing began to all the Greek hit music! It was hillarious. I read and watched from the back window, the trail of the propellers.
We were woken up by the boat, announcement early in the morning, around 9AM Italy time (Greece is one hour ahead) and proceeded to the reception area to disembarch as we slid into the Port of Bari. Bari looked massive from the boat, sprawling out in all directions from the Port. However, when we docked, after buying a map, we learned it wasnt all that huge. We took the 20 Bus to the street our hotel was on, and checked into it, the Hotel Boston. The Hotel is the nicest we have seen so far, a three star business star just moments from everything in downtown Bari. It has internet, a great breakfast, pleasant room with three beds, the best bathroom yet, and extremely big and clean. Not a great view, they are doing construction on the facade of the building.
Bari is split into asymmetrical parts, the small “Bari Vecchio” which is where the historic center is, and New Bari where the commercial, political, and modern features of the largest town and capital of the region of Puglia. Bari and Puglia are the most southern region on Italy’s east coast. Bari Vecchio was explored in about two hours. Its more famous feature is the Chiesa di San Nicola, or the Church of Saint Nicholas. This church quickly became my favorite Catholic Church, it is huge and beautiful, with minimal decorations but large columns, vaults, and white marble everything. The ceiling was very ornate however, decorated in gold and paintings of Biblical Stories. However, this was the semi-tramatic part. Saint Nicholas….Santa Claus….this is the church where Santa Claus’ bones are held. They have been preserved in a sacred liquid and held in an airtight vault with glass to see the holding container. It is all very ornate with clothes and paintings, but essentially it is a small cript in the basement under the front alter of the large church of the ground floor. We went down, very creapy. Courtney and I were joking, like in the movie Elf, “Youre not Santa, you smell like beef and cheese!”. Guess you had to be there. Anyways, we moved on and found a few more nice things about Bari including their old city walls which have been preserved and made into a parkway around the southern side of the old city, overlooking the old harbor and Adriatic Sea. It is very nice for walking. Also, another large cathedral in town was nice to check out. Other than that, all I can say about Bari is that it is very small and very clean, and overall one of my favorite Italian cities as of now! All of the buildings are hobbled onto one another, with families living in all of them. Small Bars (remember, Bars in Italy are kinf of like coffee shops mixed with a NYC Deli) are tucked away everywhere, and fresh food items, especially fish, are sold everywhere in the alleys. Many families, since today was such a nice day, threw open their windows and doors leaving curtains swinging out into the street for us to literally walk into. Laundry was hanging everywhere from balconies and you could smell Italian cooking happening in kitchens that if I wanted to, I could walk right into, and Italian voices shouting out from all the windows. THIS was what you picture when you think of “Italy” and we have found it. The streets are small, but hold so much, it is impossible to photograph or remember it all.
I went out by myself after my friends wanted to go back to the Hotel, and tried to visit a museum about the History of Bari, however it was closed for renovation so instead I just walked everywhere, including Guiseppe Garibaldi Piazza, where I was hoping to see another Garibaldi Statue. That is my thing this trip, to take a picture of Garibaldi in every city I travel too, because everyone has one, he was the man who fought to unite Italy from many region states into one nation in the 1850s. However, I oddly could not find one, the park was void of statues, but very crowded with people. Large crowds of old Italian men were gathered around the park tables watching 3 or 4 card players play games and to cheer them on. I joined at one point to watch with the 20 other 60 year old men, however it quickly became awkwardddd. I came back to the hotel, we visited a Supermercati to get snacks and drinks, and then went to dinner at the restaurant next door to our hotel called Ristorante Opera. It had a great menu for reasonble prices. I tried the Wild Boar dish…for Americani, served with french fries. Wah wahhh, the meat was delicious however. Tonight we plan to stay in, tomorrow we want to go out. Tomorrow we also plan to travel by regional train to do a day trip out to Lecce were well see a few castles from hundreds of years ago and see what Italy’s “deep-south” is really like. We may also try to squeeze in Taranto, a port town in the very elbow of the heel and the bottom of the boot. Who knows, as long as it works out better than Olympia. Hope this wasnt too long, over 3000 words! Sorry! Will post again in a day or two if there is internet at our next hotel, the Best Western. See you all soon, I have been thinking of all of you who read this, and so who dont, and hope you are well.